Hot, humid, large and proud: the clime protestation successful the metropolis of Belem was the embodiment of the Amazonian rainforest that surrounds it.
Hawkers brought carts selling bananas, mangoes and coconuts - portion demonstrators bore umbrellas, hats and fans to structure from the scorching tropical sun.
After a week of dreary negotiations astatine the COP30 clime talks, the streets were live with the drumming of maracatu euphony and dancing to section carimbo rhythms connected Saturday.
It was a carnival ambiance designed to elevate sober issues.
Among those retired connected the streets were Kayapo people, an indigenous assemblage surviving crossed the states of Para and Mato Grosso - the second astatine the frontier of soy enlargement successful the Brazilian Amazon.
They are warring section infrastructure projects similar the caller Ferrograo railway that volition transport soy done their homeland.
The soy manufacture raises much-needed currency for Brazil's system - its 2nd biggest export - but the kayapo accidental they bash not get a portion of the benefit.
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Uti, a Kayapo assemblage leader, said: "We bash not judge the operation of the Ferrograo and immoderate different projects.
"We Kayapo bash not judge immoderate of this being built connected indigenous land."
Many Brazilian indigenous and assemblage groups present privation ineligible designation of the rights to their onshore - and connected Friday, the Brazilian authorities agreed to designate 2 much territories to the Mundurucu people.
It's a Brazilian lens connected planetary issues - indigenous peoples are wide regarded arsenic the champion stewards of the land, but seldom rewarded for their efforts.
In fact, it is often a unspeakable opposite: grandma Julia Chunil Catricura had been warring to enactment connected Mapuche onshore successful confederate Chile, but disappeared earlier this twelvemonth erstwhile she went retired for a walk.
Lefimilla Catalina, besides Mapuche, said she's travelled 2 days to beryllium present successful Belem to rise the lawsuit of Julia, and to forge alliances with different groups.
"At slightest [COP30] makes it visible" to the satellite that radical are "facing conflicts" connected their land, she said.
She added: "COP offers a tiny abstraction [for indigenous people], and we privation to beryllium much involved.
"We privation to person much influence, and that's wherefore we judge we person to instrumentality ownership of these spaces, we can't enactment retired of it."
They are joined by clime protesters from astir the satellite successful an effort to clasp governments' feet to the fire.
Louise Hutchins, convener of Make Polluters Pay Coalition International, said: "We're present to accidental to governments they request to marque the lipid and state companies wage up for the clime demolition - they've made billions successful profits each time for the past 50 years."
After 3 years of COPs with nary protests - the UAE, Egypt, and Azerbaijan bash not look kindly connected radical taking to the streets - this twelvemonth demonstrators person defined the look, the code and the soundtrack of the COP30 clime talks - and Saturday was nary different.
Whether that volition construe into thing much ambitious to travel retired of COP30 remains to beryllium seen, with different week of negotiations inactive to go.
For now, the protests successful Belem bespeak the chaos, the messiness and the quality of Brazil, the COP process, and the remainder of the satellite beyond.

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