Astypalea's Chora, oregon capital.
Ed Moskalenko | Getty Images
The tiny, butterfly-shaped Greek land of Astypalea has each the ingredients for a relaxing vacation: myriad beaches with wide waters, large seafood and a castle perched supra a accepted achromatic municipality with winding alleys and views crossed the Aegean Sea.
It's besides little developed than its larger neighbors similar Rhodes and Kos, and with a colonisation of conscionable 1,400, Astypalea made for a chilled vacation destination erstwhile I visited successful June.
Some of the lanes successful the island's Chora — oregon superior — are truthful tiny that donkeys transportation operation tools to hard-to-reach gathering sites, but the mode of transport astir noticeable connected Astypalea is simply a fleet of electrical minibuses, portion of a strategy called AstyBus — an antithetic show for the Greek islands.
It's worthy starting a travel to the land by visiting the remains of the 15th period Venetian castle precocious supra the Chora, which was built connected the tract of different structures including from the Roman and Byzantine eras. From determination I walked down towards the 8 traditional, red-roofed windmills astatine the centre of the town, primitively constructed to mill atom successful the 13th and 14th centuries. At the bottommost of the elevation is the island's tiny but fascinating Archaeological Museum, with artefacts from the pre-historic play to the Middle Ages.
To statesman with, I utilized the autobus to get from the bottommost of the Chora to the apical erstwhile it was excessively blistery to locomotion up its winding streets, earlier exploring further.
Agios Dimitrios religion successful the colony of Maltezana, Astypalea
Lucy Handley
My archetypal halt was Maltezana, a winding 20-minute autobus thrust from the Chora, and Astypalea's second-largest settlement. I disembarked a halt oregon 2 inland to look wrong Agios Dimitros, a tiny religion other Maltezana's market store. While the religion is painted successful the accepted bluish and achromatic benignant connected the outside, it is ornately-decorated inside, with book scenes successful bluish and golden connected its walls and ceiling.
A abbreviated locomotion from the church, a drawstring of restaurants enactment a constrictive beach. Its clear, shallow waters were pleasant to wade into aft lazing nether 1 of the scrubby trees connected the sand.
Over the adjacent fewer days I visited much beaches utilizing the AstyBus: Schinonta, a quiescent bay on from Maltezana, and tree-lined Livadi, which is conscionable implicit the elevation from the Chora, and has a fewer restaurants close connected the beach.
The autobus inaugural is portion of a expansive program to crook Astypalea into a "smart and sustainable island" — a concern betwixt the Greek authorities and Volkswagen. It claims to beryllium a first of its benignant initiative for the Greek islands, and aims to regenerate accepted combustion-engine vehicles with electric-powered cars, and enactment an wide displacement to renewable energy.
Authorities privation to support the land unspoiled, putting the absorption connected sustainability and mean development.
Volkswagen supplied electrical minibuses to Astypalea, portion of an inaugural for the land to go "smart and sustainable."
Lucy Handley
Alongside the EVs, a hybrid powerfulness presumption is being built. In an interrogation with CNBC, Astypalea's politician Nikolaos Komineas said it volition screen much than 50% of the island's vigor needs during the summer, with plans for upwind procreation too.
Komineas besides wants to trim the fig of single-use integrative bottles by making pat h2o harmless to portion and having hotels and different accommodation providers connection reusable h2o bottles. "My imagination is that by the extremity of 2027, aboriginal 2028, each of those caller infrastructures are going to beryllium connected the island," helium said.
An out-of-the-way beach
Having traveled by autobus to respective beaches, I wanted to spell determination much remote. I'd seen photos of Vatses, a formation connected the extremity of the left-hand helping of the Astypalea butterfly; a wide, sandy bay bordered by sparse, rocky cliffs. I needed a car for the travel arsenic it was retired of Astybus's sum area, and hired an EV — a VW ID.3 — utilizing the AstyGO app. I uploaded my driver's licence and recognition paper to the app, which past uses Bluetooth to entree vehicles.
While the car was creaseless to drive, getting into it was little so, with the app needing to beryllium rebooted earlier the conveyance would start, and astir of the instructions connected the dashboard being successful Greek only.
The thrust to Vatses was not for the faint-hearted: an unsealed roadworthy gave mode to a constrictive way with a steep driblet connected 1 side. But the formation was beauteous and resembled its photos, with a cafe connected 1 broadside serving Greek salads, java and cocktails, positive prima loungers for rent and trees to prevarication nether — an casual spot to walk the afternoon.
Vatses formation connected Astypalea, Greece, is accessed via an unsealed road.
George Papapostolou | Moment Open | Getty Images
Accessing the car for the instrumentality travel besides proved tricky. Having been astatine the formation for respective hours, I'd been automatically logged retired of the AstyGO app, and without 5G telephone awesome I couldn't unfastened the car door, fto unsocial commencement the engine. Fortunately, the cafe had Wi-Fi, and I was capable to thrust backmost up the rocky roadworthy — trailing a goat for portion of the way.
Safely backmost successful the Chora, I enjoyed an al-fresco meal astatine Navagos, which has a tapas-style modern Greek paper that included locally-made sausages with baked potatoes and slow-cooked chickpeas with citrus sauce. For pastries oregon dessert, a favourite cafe was Glykia, a small mode up the elevation past the Chora's beach.
Even successful June, Astypalea felt similar like a local's island, and a longtime visitant described it arsenic being "like Santorini 20 years ago."
Overtourism is simply a large occupation for immoderate Greek islands, with the politician of Santorini (about 100km westbound of Astypalea) describing the unit of millions of visitors arsenic becoming "unbearable," successful an interview with the Guardian past year.
Astypalea receives astir 32,000 to 36,000 tourists a year, according to the mayor's office. Santorini, connected the different hand, which is astir three-quarters of the size, welcomes upwards of 3-million visitors.
Astypalea takes a more-balanced attack towards tourism. The politician and the section authorities turned down a connection to physique 200 villas connected the land past year. "We don't privation a crowded island," helium said. "We don't privation to spoil the land astatine all. We privation to support the quality arsenic it is."










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